My week end has been all about sewing – if you don’t count the several loads of washing, the shopping, the cleaning – and here are the results of all my efforts to get a better fitting Anna Dress.
My first Anna was a straight size 8 – no adjustments whatsoever and neither a muslin to try the fit. Of course that dress isn’t perfect, but what I dislike the most about it, it’s that I look pregnant if you look at me sideways. Look!
The main problems was the front bodice riding up, resulting in uneven waistline and hem, a choking neckline and shoulder seams slipping towards the back. To understand why this was happening and how to fix it I bought a book! I love books and I read good reviews about “Fit for real People” by Palmer and Pletsch, so now it’s in my personal library. The photos are a bit dated but the book is full of useful examples and explanation on every sort of fitting issue and I’m very happy to have purchased it and I highly recommend it to every beginner like me – all those photos and pictures are great and you can “easily” individuate your body problems.
So …. This is what I’ve modified in my Anna Dress. First of all I’ve double checked my size and I cut again an 8 as my bust and waist fall exactly in this size. And then:
- I lengthen the front and the back bodice pieces by 2 cm as the first Anna waistline was a bit too high for my liking.
- Reading the book and comparing the pictures in the book with my photos, I found out I sadly have a very round back (I won’t give up knitting thought!). Basically my shoulders have moved forward and my upper back is a bit rounded, causing my bodice to ride to the back and making the front neckline to tight and also creating some gaping at the back neck. To alter the pattern I draw a perpendicular line to the grain about 10 cm below the base of the neck, cut all the way to the side seamline and then raising the upper back of 2 cm. This created a slightly curved centre back seamline which I can follow to fit my back curve.
- To reduce the centre back gaping issue I’ve also followed Gingermakes tutorial, slashing and overlapping the tissue of about 1 cm.
- My hem being longer at the back is also caused by my lack of derrière. Mais oui, my ass isn’t big enough to fill the Anna dress properly and I require less length at the centre back. I’ve started fixing the back bodice first and later on I’ll check the fit on the skirt panels too. I’ve basically draw another line, perpendicular to the grain, about 5 cm above the bottom of the bodice and cut it all the way to the side seamline and overlapped the bottom to the top piece by 2 cm. All these adjustments distorted the grainline – straighten it! – and also the seams – true them!
- And lastly, as after all these alteration my shoulder seams weren’t lying in a straight line from the base of the neck yet, I went for a forward shoulder adjustment too! Oh yeah! I moved the entire seam forward from the neck, removing 2 cm from the front bodice and adding an equal amount to the back.