Happy New Year everyone! I know, I know it’s a bit too late to talk about Xmas and all that, but I’m so glad 2015 is finally over that I really wish myself and everyone else a glorious 2016! Anyhow… In between work and house renos, I managed to whip up something to wear during the festivities: it’s the Paparcut Patterns Saiph Tunic, from the Constellation collection – a loose fitting tunic with french darts and two hem variations. The back has a centre seam and features slit and loop closure.
I think I’ve been attracted by this pattern for a few reasons: first of all it has just five pieces, so it’s pretty easy and quick to cut and sew; secondly it has long sleeves which means I can wear it without having to find a cardigan to go with it; and lastly, that circular skirt! I love circle skirts and I just couldn’t pass it.
The fabric I’ve used it’s a very cheap market find and I have no idea about the content. The black isn’t tightly woven and during the sewing it unravelled very easily. It’s quite thick and also has a bit of give, which I found perfect for making a long sleeves dress. The metal silver threads are woven through the black, creating this sort of cheetah pattern I really like. It’s not a very soft material, but I think I’ll have no problems wearing this tunic next to skin and if it gets too scratchy I can still put a top underneath.
I did cut a muslin in a XS because I was really worried about fitting the sleeves and did my usual adjustments straight away: ½” forward shoulders – moving accordingly the sleeve cap too, and 5/8” sway back. Surprisingly the fit was quite right at this first go: I could move my arms up and down and reach easily without ripping the seams open – maybe thanks to the back slit too, and the only other adjustments I needed were moving the dart down by 1” and a 3/8” broad shoulders. I also lengthened the body of the dress by 5cm, but next time I’ll add this amount to the circular skirt instead, for a more balanced look.
The construction of the Saiph is pretty straight forward and it took me just a couple of hours to get it done. This sort of patterns really makes me happy: in one afternoon I can have a new pretty dress even if I don’t have much time for sewing! That said, Papercut instructions are as always well written and to the point, it’s hard to go wrong with those patterns.
As I said the fabric shredded like crazy, so I serged all the seam allowances before sewing the dress together. I was also worried about using the main fabric for the neck facing, being it quite thick and wiggly, but the interfacing and the heat of the iron worked a deal and I was able to use it. Basically the heat shrunk the material, giving it more stability. Luckily, I’ve interfaced the facing at the beginning and I realized in time that ironing this fabric was nearly impossible.
This partly justify the wobbly seams and the even wobblier hem. I did my best with careful pressing, but the risk of melting this material was very high, so let’s pretend the seams are all nice and flat, shall we?
I love how this dress turned out – the simplicity of the lines let the fabric shine and that back slit with that pretty button makes me want to wear this Saiph back to front. I’m a sucker for buttons and at the same market where I bought the fabric, I found an old lady selling all sorts of vintage/end of lines buttons and every time I go there, I pay her a visit just to get some. This one reminds me of Madonna’s bullet bras and I think it’s the perfect match for my silver cheetah print.
For now that’s all from me, have an awesome weekend everyone!